Belt Sanders
  Drum Floor Sanders
Floor Sander Edgers
  Floor Buffers
Round Sanders
  Square Sanders
Detail Sanders
  Square Floor Sanders
Wet Dry Vocuums
  Heavy Duty Extension Cords
Micro Sanders
  Taping Knives
Tack Puller
High Density Foam Rollers
  Polyurethane Brushes
Lambswool Roller
  Lambswool Applicator
Floor Coaters
  Stain Applicator
  Sweeper Refills
Pry Bars
  Ear Plugs
Safety Goggles
Work Gloves
Respirator Filters
Round Sandpaper
  Square Sandpaper
Belt Sandpaper
  Round Red Buffing Pads
Round White Buffing Pads
  Sander Back Pads
Masking Tapes
  Parquet Floor Boards
  Wood Finish
Mineral Spirits
  Wood Filler
Instructional Books
  Instructional Videos

How to Sand and Finish Hardwood Floors
Inspect the hardwood floor for any nails, staples, or tacks and pull them out or make sure they’re below the surface or they might damage the sand paper. Once you start sanding, and the sanding machine comes into contact with the nail, you would see the sparks, so it’s better to remove them beforehand.
Remove sliding closet doors, furniture, any debris, and shoe moldings.
Cover moldings with duct tape to prevent any damage, dirt, and polyurethane coming into contact with it.
To survive this project, you need to protect yourself with lots of construction gear. This is not even optional. Inhaling sawdust and poisonous fumes from polyurethane for hours can leave you hospitalized. At all times you must use respirator, safety goggles, work gloves, and ear plugs.
Sand the floor with drum sander using sandpaper with grit # 24, 60, and 100. Lower the handle on the machine to apply the sandpaper to the floor only when moving. Remember to always move in the direction of the wood grain and always forward, never backwards. Before stopping pull back the handle to lift up the sandpaper, and make a U-turn to go back. Do not sand across parquet or perpendicular, always move along the parquet boards.
Use wood filler to fill up any cracks and gaps in the parquet, and let it dry for 2 hours.
Remember to sweep and vacuum between sandings. Sanding on top of the sawdust or other debris is useless.
Use edge sander with grit # 24 sandpaper on edges and corners. Apply gently removing only the top layer and not further than an inch from the edge.

Use palm sander with grit # 24 , 60, and 100 sandpaper to work on any surface left untreated by drum and edge sanders.
Use detail sander on corners and other hard to reach places.
Optional: For finer sanding use square buffer (or vibrating sander) with grit # 120 (or 100) and the red pad to remove any unevenness left by the drum sander. Thoroughly use it on edges and corners to even out different patterns left by various sanders.
Inspect the floor for any parquet boards that weren’t sanded. Some of them may have been lowered deeper into the floor by some heavy object standing on it for a long time. Make sure to sand those boards with a palm sander to remove the top layer. Failure to do so, may result in polyurethane not adhering to it properly and their coloring will stand out from the rest of the floor.

Sweep and vacuum the floor. Wipe it with damp cloth (tack cloth) or a sweeper. Use water and not any cleaning substance. Don’t make the floor wet. Rub it just enough to pick up all the dust and debris. Let the floor dry for 1 hour. Make sure that there is no rain forecasted in the next 24 hours and open all the windows slightly.
Optional: Apply stain with foam applicator pad in the direction of the wood grain. Make sure to wipe the stain thoroughly, not leaving any paddles or even drops. Leaving too much stain may not allow the floor to dry and may ruin the wood. In most cases stains require 12 hours to dry completely.

Open the can of polyurethane without shaking it too much. Shaking creates bubbles which cause imperfections in the coverage. Pick up any residue from the bottom and continue stirring. Stir it gently until all substances dissolve. Whenever bubbles occur during the application, stir them until they disappear.
Apply a thin layer of polyurethane using a lambswool or a T-bar applicator. Let it dry for at least 24 hours.

The first coat may not feel very smooth to the touch because the wood may have absorbed a good portion of it.

The second coat will make the surface smoother, but the particles and bubbles would cause some degree of roughness.
You may not need to sand between coats if you apply the final coat within 6-12 hours of the previous coat (see polyurethane manufacturer’s instructions on the can). If it’s been more than 12 hours, you will need to buff the floor with grit # 200.

Sweep and vacuum the floor again, and apply the 3rd and final coat of polyurethane.
Clean the floor with mixture of water and vinegar.